Alamaja

Right on the lake's shore at Koli harbour, this rust-red, double-storey timber building has two terraces overlooking the water (or, in winter, ice) and some of the best food for miles around: reindeer steaks with lingonberry jam, butter-fried vendace with sour cream and dill potatoes, delicious haloumi burgers and a different soup each day (plus, this being Finland, two saunas).